Great pics Mike! My heart was in my throat just seeing the images of those huge trunks going over the house!! Diane must have nerves of steel. Those guys truly knew what they were doing--very efficient. Donna and I will be around tomorrow a.m. to help clear the branches. Thanks for the firewood :o)
I need to find the manual I bought. I scanned it in and sent the files to another guy in Brazil. It will take me a day or two (I don't remember where I stored the files or what I called them...). But I will send it to you, even if I have to scan it in again.
MIke
Hi Mike, I have the same unit, care to share the manual or where you got it? Also curious as to how much you bought it for. Thanks, Conrad
I have just purchased an FAIRBANKS - MORSE Onan 10LS-103 generator. I am very new to generators and I do not know much about what I have just got. Can you tell me what oil and how much should I use in this engne? And anything else I need to know and to watch for. I do not have a manual for it yet.
I wonder if you can tell me what the numbers on the generator are saying about the unit.
SERIAL NUMBER: 115. 263677 GEN: # 249416 GEN: DATA: 5017
Several of the members seem to know a lot about these generators. I am sure that they would be happy to provide useful information. Attached is an image of the nameplate of my unit, and it would appear to be a little older than yours. These units date from the 1940-50 timeframe, so it would be interesting to see if and how they perform. The 10LS series only puts out 1 KW, but, unlike today's Chinese screamers, they will do it all day long, year after year.
I think I have a manual in digital form around here somewhere, but I can't seem to find it. When I do find it, I will send it along.
I've got the mate of right here. Resale value today is between $30-50. If you want to clean the internals... do not spray faderlube or anything in the EQ sliders, it can ruin the contacts and kill anything attached to the EQ in line. If your gain switches are crackly, a little 99% alcohol sprayed in and some vigorous spinning to loosen the gunk should do the trick. Nice find.
Fortunately, my unit is dead quiet. But I would very much like to find copy of the user manual for it. I think I have it right, but I am not sure, and I am not entirely sure how the controls should be used.
Seems to be a robust and very nice tuner ! ... I just found one today after a flea market, no buyer, so abandoned...; I like the meters and the huge tuning button, and the sound is quite good. ! Alain
It does seem nice enough, certainly the best of the three pieces that made up the "system". I think, on the scale of 1 to 10, it is a 5 when compared to some of the other tuners I have encountered or read about. The cassette deck also looked nice, but it was all looks - it was definitely mediocre quality inside. The amp/preamp looks very impressive also, but lacks flexibility - it can only handle the tuner and cassette deck and one pair of speakers. I foolishly didn't save the rack cabinet, which I find now that I could have made good use of.
That's an Ampex deck, with IT electronics! Can't tell from the cut-off picture if it is a 350 or 351 or even 440. But you need to study up on Ampex models! And these transport buttons were the first in the American industry, so the Otaris are wrong - Japanese style. The Ampex transport buttions were the orignals!
Lou - I had not idea that is an Ampex transport, and you are the first person to ever mention it! Please contact me at <mikesloane@verizon.net> and I will happily send you images of the control buttons, etc.
That's interesting - I was not aware that there was more than one size Unicorn splitter. Note that mine is pictured on a relatively large tractor. I would be curious to see what your machine looks like in comparison to the one I have..
my dad has this same machine and every book you w eveer need to run this machine and know what ur doing and how to interpret all of it my name is chris and i can b reached at 517 740 9493 get me ur address and what info u need and i can make u a copy
Hi, Chris! Thanks for the offer of help. What I am missing you may not be able to help me with: the roll chart on the upper right that provides all the settings for various makes and models of cars is completely gone. This isn't real important, because I don't work on old cars, just old tractors. The other thing that is missing is the exhaust gas analyzer hardware. Again, I am not sure how much value that would be in fixing old farm tractors. I do have the spiral bound manual that appears to provide sufficient information for basic settings, but if there is other documentation, I would be very interested. Drop me a note at <mikesloane@verizon.net>, and we can discuss.
I have an old Viking deck that is very similar to yours. Mine is a called a stereo 88 compact. I believe this series came out about 1955 or so. I remember first hearing STEREO at the local Audio store and was amazed. About 35 years ago I saw the one I have offered at a swapmeat and bought it for $15.00 It has served me well ever since. (mostly as an object of discussion with my friends) but it does still sound pretty good.
I have to think that the 77 is newer than the 50s - it is "solid state", not tubes, and we didn't see transistorized stereo gear much until the mid 60s. I have a Concord 401 stereo tape deck that I bought new in 1963, and it has tubes. The Viking was nice enough in its day, but I have accumulated many decks that are so much better that it isn't worth the effort to try to get this one working well. Another project for another day...
Because of changes in US regulations in the '70s, the formulas for audio tape had to be changed. Unfortunately, one formula that was used became gummy over time. The result was tape that was prone to shed material that stuck to the heads and guides, as well as sticking to itself (thus the name "sticky back"). There is no permanent cure for this problem, although gently baking the tapes for several hours in a food dehydrator will make it possible to extract the contents of the tape, if the contents are important. But it will then become sticky again later. The content of my tapes wasn't important, so I just discarded it.
I wish it were that easy. I have searched all over and not found anything that matches the spacing and the notch. This unit was made in Mexico and probably used a locally available cable. Or something.
That gives me a date to work with. I cannot imagine why it was being discarded. But then again, most of my "collection" consist of pieces that people discarded for no obvious reason.
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